İzmir Kokoreç

Kokoreç is a very popular fast-food dish in Tūrkiye, typically consisting of milk lamb sweetbreads (thymus gland) and large intestine wrapped with the young spring lamb’s small intestines grilled slowly on a horizontally rotating cast iron skewer over charcoal. Kokoreç has a crispy texture on the outside due to the grilling, while the inside is tender and juicy, providing a rich, fatty flavour. It is served in half a baguette of bread or a flatbread wrap. This dish is especially popular as a late-night snack and is often enjoyed with ayran (a yoghurt-based drink) or cold beer.

İzmir Kokoreç vs. Other Turkish Kokoreç

In İzmir, it is presented to the bread/plate directly from the heat of the coal embers with 4-5 knife slices and accompanied simply with cumin. This differs from kokoreç in other regions of Tūrkiye, which is often finely chopped and mixed with tomato, pepper, and herbs such as mint and thyme. In İzmir, the spices are used more sparingly than in other regions, allowing the meat’s natural flavour to stand out.

Kokoreç skewers at Kumrucu Çınar in the centre of Çeşme
Kokoreç skewers at Kumrucu Çınar in the centre of Çeşme

İzmir Kokoreç Preparation

In preparation, the intestines are turned inside out and thoroughly cleaned, rubbed, and washed five times in rock salt and water. The fatty large intestine and sweetbread are threaded onto the long skewer, then wrapped with the intestine to hold it tightly together like a bandage dressing. The kokoreç may be flavoured with oregano, salt, pepper, olive oil and lemon.

Kokoreç Origins

The dish reflects a tradition of using every part of the animal, particularly in rural communities where nothing goes to waste. The concept of cooking organ meats, including intestines, dates back to ancient times. In the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions, offal has long been valued for its nutritional richness and affordability. During the Ottoman Empire, food traditions spread across the empire’s vast territories, influencing Turkish and Balkan cuisines. The dish is believed to have been a common dish among shepherds and rural communities, who would use lamb or goat intestines and offal to create a hearty, filling meal.

After World War II, urbanisation and migration to cities saw a rise in the demand for cheap, filling foods. Being made from affordable offal, it became a staple for working-class people. Kokoreç became more than just a dish; it now symbolises traditional street food culture in Tūrkiye.

Kokoreç in Other Cultures

As a dish purported to originate from the Byzantine era, similar recipes using other offal such as liver, heart, lungs, and kidney can be found in Albania, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Serbia. In Greece, kokoretsi (a similar dish) has been prepared for centuries, especially during Easter celebrations. It involves wrapping seasoned lamb intestines around offal (such as liver, lungs, and sweetbreads), then roasting them.